Ghorepani-Ghandruk Call

Beautiful Sunrise View from Poonhill

For me, one vacation a year is must. And, when we talk about vacation what could be better than walking to the remote places? There's something that keeps calling me back to pristine country side.  After Basantapur-Taplejung trekking last year, I was planning to trek to Upper Mustang. Given the long and expansive route and unavailability of friends ( Dashain time), I ended up going to Gorepani-Ghandruk round which is the best option for trekkers like me who want to see more in Nepal but do not have more time with.

Ram, a good friend from Pokhara has similar nomad heart. He readily agreed with my trekking proposal. He came to receive me in Pokhara and that evening we enjoyed majestic sun set above the hills of Fewa Lake.  After a good night's rest, we did simple shopping –chocolates, cigarette and some toiletries and started our journey. To proceed from Pokhara, we had two options: taxi to Nayapul or local bus in route to Baglung. We opted for the latter after all Rs 85 per passenger in the local bus is much cheaper than Rs. 400. in taxi.   We climbed up onto the roof–the only spot available. It was a bit risky but the view you get to see from the roof deserves the risk.

Chautari View

Our trekking started from Nayapul. After walking about half an hour, we reached Birethati. Actually, at first, we were not planning to go to Gorepani/Poonhill  but as we learned that Ghandruk is hardly 6 hours walk from Birethati, we decided to go other way round–Ghorepani to Ghandruk.  Ram had gone to Ghandruk once when he was in his school. But, to Gorepani, everything was new for us. We didn't know if we could reach Ghorepani the same day. Going to new places without knowing the route or without any guiding maps is always a challenge. We accepted the challenge and set ourselves to explore the unexplored (at least for two of us).

It takes about 3 hours to reach Tikhedhunga from Birethati and the trail is comparatively easier. Tikhedhunga onwards starts the strenuous walk. 5 hour long steady climb which is known as Ulleri ko Ukalo is the most notorious of all in whole round. To make the matter worse, pouring started as we were about to finish the climbing. Then only we realized how we had underestimated by cutting necessities down. No raincoat, wet shoes and freezing hands.  As we stopped for lunch at Ulleri, the pouring stopped. We were richly compensated for our sorry condition by the unexpected semi circle beautiful rainbow. It was for the first time, we had seen rainbow that close.

Annapurna South as seen from Poonhill.

After hard climb to Ulleri, it was time to get deep into the forest from Banthati.  It's about 4-5 hours rhododendron forest walk. We imagined how the forest would look like blooming at the fullest.  Langurs were the only animal species we saw in the forest. However, the chirping of birds entertained us throughout the walk.  It was already dark when we reached a small village of Birethati (2874m). As we stopped to take some snaps posing in front of a sign post with "Welcome to Birethati", then only we realized we were in Myagdi never knowing when we left Kaski behind.  Locals told us we had walked the distance which people normally walk in two days. At Birethati, every houses with blue tinned roof was wonder for us. I have heard Khumbu valley has green roofed houses. Since our legs were hurting deadly, without much ado, we decided to find a hotel room and throw ourselves into the warm bed.  The night temperature was below 5 degree and we were literally quivering. Thanks to sauni didi who served us jhaneko rakshi  that helped keep our body warm to some extent.

The next morning, at 5:30, although reluctant to leave warm bed, we started to climb the famous Poonhill. We saw couple of tourists along the way. But after 45 minutes of steep climb, we reached the top of Poonhill  (3210 m). It was already crowded. Most of the tourists were setting their cameras to capture the sun rise. As the sun rose, the atmosphere was electrifying. Words are not sufficient to describe the beauty of sunrise. The clouds turned into golden, the Himalayas changed their colour and turned into golden too. More  the sun gained height, more beautiful was  the panorama. I understood why Machhapuchre Himal is named as 'Machhapuchre'. The fish tail peak was seen clearly. In addition, the view of Himchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna, Tukuche, Nilgiri, Daulagiri is so captivating that visitors cannot help but reminisce. The Himalaya range seen from Poonhill extends to more than 180 degree.  It was a dream comes true which is why we were the last to descent from Poonhill.

From Ghorepani, the northern downhill leads to Tatopani, Maygdi and then to Mustang. But, our next destination was Ghandruk. After breakfast, we targeted Ghandruk the same day. Otherwise, the trekkers (mostly foreigners) opt to stay a night at Tadapani.  We had hardly seen tourists on the way to Ghorepani the previous day. In contrast, as we headed to Ghandruk, we were surprised to see hundreds of tourists.  There was a long queue which reminds me of Salt Caravan. But this was mere a caravan of enthusiast tourists, mostly Asian visitors. After gaining some heights equal to height of Poonhill, we reached Deurali. The clouds completely enveloped us. The sweating trekkers were busy putting jackets and gloves on. To keep ourselves warm and also to invigorate us, we drank rakshi wherever available.

From Deurali, 2 hour descent takes to another tiring step hill climb just before Tadapani. As we were approaching Tadapani, one tourist asked me how long was the climbing. I answered her  just about 1 hour.  She shared with joy, "I will roll down when I meet downhill climb".  A small stopover with nearly two dozen lodges, Tadapani  is the  point just before Ghandruk.  After taking our lunch, we set ourselves for the descent of four hours. Though the trail runs across the middle of jungle, it is well maintained. The bridge is built over the springs and sign posts are built for guidance–thanks to National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC). 

At Ghandruk

 After meticulous forest downhill for four hour, we reached Ghandruk. I was in school I had heard about Ghandruk. The word 'trekking' and Ghandruk used  to come to my mind simultaneously.  It was another dream came true. Finally, I was in legendry village of Gurungs. Stone roofed houses, clean  stone paved trail, welcoming host and ever smiling and frank people are something to relish in Ghandruk. To our surprise, at night, the locals organized a singing and dancing programme. Half intoxicated by local wine, we danced till last music piece from Panchaya Baja.  Next morning, after a brief village tour, we bid farewell to lovely sunny Ghandruk. Next, we  headed to Syaulibazaar and then to Nayapul from where we took bus to Pokhara.

During our four day trek, we experienced wonders after wonders. Green forests, recurring streams, majestic Himalayas, rainbow, country lives and hospitality are the hallmark of "Naturally Nepal". Moreover, we met many helping hands throughout the journey. Laure dai didn't allow us to pay for our lunch at Ulleri, Michael bhai arranged our hotel stay in Ghorepani, Chaudhary dai for sharing his experience  in trekking field, Gurung Aama helped my message conveyed to a girl with whom I was in love at first sight in Ghandruk and police Inspector dai in Damauli for his kind help–these people made our journey more memorable. Once I was told, give mundane a little twist, set yourself to  travel and the whole world opens up for you. At least, it is true when you travel to places like Ghandruk and Ghorepani.

The Invention of Everest

We are in the year 1852, at the headquarters of the Grand Trigonometrical Survey of India at Dehra Dun, 140 kilometres north-northeast of Delhi. Radhanath Sikdhar, the head of the Computing Office, bursts into the office of the Superintendent General, Sir Andrew Waugh, with some news they had been expecting for months. “Sir, I have discovered the highest mountain in the world!” The legend of Everest began at that moment.

In point of fact, the history books divide the credit for the “discovery” between Sikdhar and Michael Hennessy, Waugh’s young assistant. However, within the question that day appeared quite irrelevant. Even more so because the entire Survey staff had been working for some time on the measurement of the Himalayan peaks, and the final figures announced by the computing chief were in reality the result of long collective calculations. In the history of Himalayism, the event was an important date for another reason. The same fate that had befallen Mont Blanc some decades before now befell Everest. Basically speaking, before it could be climbed, the Himalayan colossus had to be literally “invented” with an imaginary framework, and then “discovered” by using a series of complex trigonometric calculations, which were essential to extract and isolate the mighty outline of Peak XV form the chaos of the surrounding peaks.

In reality the lengthy process which led to the “discovery” of Everest started at least fifty years before. It is, however, difficult to trace precisely its origin, because we also have to knot together different stories and interweaves events which are scattered and sometimes distant in space and time.

By the beginning of the nineteenth century, about a hundred and fifty years after the establishment of the first English agencies at Madras, Bombay and Calcutta, India was almost totally under British control. But the Raj, the British Empire needed to consolidate its power, keeping an eye on the international chessboard, with special attention to Russian attempts at expansion in central Asia­–above all in the Hindu Kush, the Pamir and Tibet–which were still unknown and charted. It was no coincidence right in the center of the continent, the imperialist greed of the two providing the British colony with suitable cartographical support began later, at the turn of the next century, with the founding of the Grand Trigonometrical Survey.

In 1823 Colonel George Everest came onto the stage, as Superintendent of the Indian Trigonometrical Survey, and for many years, till 1843, he worked tirelessly on an ambitious project: a grid survey of the whole Raj. But his aims also included the mathematical calculation of the great meridian arc which rises from Cape Comorin at the southern end of the Indian peninsula, and crosses the Himalayan chain. The measurement of the latter was to make it possible to determine the mathematical geoids (the theoretical ideal sphere) on which to calculate the heights of the mountains. During their surveys the officials moved in almost all directions, and in the 1830s came within sight of the Himalayas. The English had for some time suspected that the orographic nodes of the great mountain chain contained some of the highest mountains on Earth. Already at the beginning of the nineteenth century, Colebrooke and Webb, the explores of the Ganges and its  power was shortly afterwards to start that spy war which in Great Britain took the name of the Great Game, and which the Russians, more picturesquely, were to call the Sahdow Torunament.

It is clear that in such a setting the British stationed in India felt the need to have an in-depth knowledge of–and to properly control–the territory of the British Raj and bordering regions. The first triangulations in Indian territory date back to 1764 and were carried out in the Ganges Valley, but the ambitious plan of sources, spoke of very high mountains, some over five miles in height, higher than any peaks in the Andes. But for the moment the figure were still approximate. To find out more, they had to pinpoint the various peaks exactly on the map and, above all, give their exact elevations. There were many hurdles to overcome, because Tibet, Nepal, China, Sikkim and Bhutan barred the way to the topographers. The British were consequently obliged to carry out their measurements from trigonometrical stations quite distant from the actual Himalayan chain.

It was hard work in those conditions, even more because, due to the monsoons, the surveying teams could count on good visibility only from October to December. But this was not all: to obtain reliable data, the teams studying the Himalayas were forced to use particularly powerful theodolites, of enormous size and all very heavy; so heavy that it took a dozen men to transport one single piece of equipment.

In the autumn of 1847, Waugh was dealing with the measurement of Kangchenjunga, until then considered the highest mountain in the world. Behind the Himalayan giant, however, the Survey Superintendent observed with interest another icy peak which apparently was even higher: in topographic circles it was soon baptized with the name of “Peak B”. It was extremely difficult, at that moment, to hazard predictions, but from that sighting arose the first doubts about Kangchenjunga. Waugh decided to pursue the question and increase observations from other trigonometrical stations, which were nearer the Himalayan chain. His officers succeeded in advancing to within 170 kilometers of the mountains, and invariably–though bearing in mind the possibility of errors–all the measurements of “Peak B” indicated a height which was decidedly above that of Kangchenjunga. Subsequently the results of the various surveys were re-examined in the offices at Dehra Dun. The process of calculation lasted for a few years, because each datum obtained by the topographers had to be stripped of the effects of the refraction of light and the excessive distance of the peak from the survey stations. In the meantime, Michael Hennessy, one of Colonel Waugh’s assistants, invented a new naming system for the Himalayan Mountains, identifying the most important peaks with Roman numerals. Kanchenjunga was thus renamed Peak IX, and Peak B became Peak XV. Lastly, after much effort, came the final results which were made official only in 1856: 28,156 feet (8581.9), Peak IX and 29.002 feet (8839.8 ,meters), Peak XV. Very prudently, Waugh declared that the latter might prove to be the highest mountain in the world.

But the discovery was not yet complete. For a proper baptism, a number is not enough. The Himalayas giant needed a more dignified topynm. In Nepal no one had ever assigned a specific name to Peak XV, apart from that of the mountain chain which closes the Khumbu Valley. In Tibet, on the other hand, the inhabitants of the lands north of the Himalayas call the gigantic snowy peak, which stands out imposingly against the horizon, Chomolungma (Tschoumon- Lanckma, the Goddess Mother of the World). But for the British, the local place names were not enough. Waugh therefore suggested calling the Survey’s discovery after his predecessor, Sir George Everest, and some years later, in 1856, the Royal Geographical Society officially accepted the proposal.  But the topographers’ calculations were only the first step in drawing closer to the mountain. In reality, at the end of the nineteenth century, very little was known about Everest. Until then the British had observed the Himalayan chain as from their balcony so to speak. They had succeeded in identifying the highest peaks through the lenses of their theodolites, but knew nothing of what stretched beyond the northern limits of the British colony. Beyond certain latitude, for westerners there was only a geographic vacuum. The topographic maps of the British Raj fade into uncertainty, betraying stretches of pure fantasy, or show large white patches. In short, the great mountains of central Asia still belonged to the world of the imagination, or at least the undefined, and the representation of the Himalayan world was only an interweaving of the hypotheses. In some aspects they seem to have gone back in time, to the period when explores started off in search of new lands and imaginary regions. In any case, the last years of the nineteenth century were to bring discoveries and surprises.

Excerpts: Everest- History of the Himalayn Giant by Robert Mantovani

Bandipur– From an Isolated Town to Famous Destination

Beautiful Traditional Houses in Bandipur

There was a time,  Bandipur used to be the district  headquarter of Tanahu district. It housed government administrative offices, schools and market. People from the neighboring districts like Lamjung, Kaski and Chitwan would throng to this beautiful hill town. It was the main trading hub. But construction of Kathmandu–Pokhara Highway changed everything. In 1968, the highway completed and for technical reasons Tanahun headquarter was logically shifted to Damauli, leaving Bandipur isolated up on the hill.

In the 1970s, trading fell into a steep decline. No surprise,  Bandipur remained a mere hill town. The movement of people from other places stopped completely. Seeing uncertain future, the tradesmen of Bandipur were forced to migrate to Kathmandu, Pokhara and Narayangadh. Ram Hari Sharma, a local teacher remembers, "Most of the business men sold their houses and migrated to other big cities". Bandipur was slowly deserted and turned into a semi-ghost town. The small beautiful Newar town slept for several years.

It is a history now. It's been more than forty years and much water has flown on Marshyandi River since then. The deserted town has changed into a famous attraction for tourists. Thanks to local tourism entrepreneur who helped Bandipur stretches its arms once again.  

At a quick look, Bandipur looks much like a street in Bhaktapur or Patan but it has its own peculiarity. The stone paved street and slate roofed traditional houses have painted color to Bandipur town. The crafted windows are the best example of Newar splendid workmanship and artistic excellence. "This small well preserved town gives different experience than Pokhara and Kathmandu" said Sally (46) from Finland.  She was among the group of fifteen  and spent a night here before returning to Kathmandu.

Local involvement in branding Bandipur as the tourist destination is appreciable. Some of the migrated businessmen returned and run hotels and lodges. Bandipur Social Development Committee has been organizing Bandipur Mahotsav (festival) every year. This has given some impetus to the publicity of the place. Few years back, with the support of European commission, concept of eco cultural tourism was developed in Bandipur. Proliferation   in number of hotels and resorts are the indication of future of tourism in Bandipur.

As a famous stopover for tourists returning to Kathmandu from Pokhara and vice versa, Bandipur has many things to offer to its guests.  Tundikhel, a big open ground, which was a parking area for vehicles few years back, is a vehicular movement free zone. It serves as the main tourist attraction in Bandipur. From there, on the one hand, one can enjoy breathtaking panoramic view of mountain range. No doubt, smile automatically comes in tourists' faces when they look  at the beautiful mountain range. It feels like mountains – Annapurna, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Lamjung  Himal, Machhapuchhre, Langtang and  Ganesh are  smiling back to them as well. On the other, pair of eyes never gets tired looking at the scenic beauty of deep Marsyangdi Valley. Green lush forests, orange farm and silk worm farm attract tourist attention too.

Downhill trek to the Siddha Cave, probably the biggest cave in Nepal can be another adventure. It is believed that the cave is as big as one can enjoy an elephant ride inside the cave. A hike to Ramkot village, tour to the Bindyabashini temple, Thani Mai, Tindhara, Raniban can be other options for tourists who want to spend 2-3 days.

Although, February is not a pick tourist season, international tourists are seen roaming around Bandipur. "We receive large number of tourists during two seasons; September to December and in March to May. It may be because of publicity of Nepal Tourism Year, the booking is satisfactory", Krishna Bhattarai, manager at Bandipur Mountain Resort shared. He added that Bandipur can be developed as MICE tourism. But he admitted the resorts and hotels lack necessary facilities to cater the requirement for convention and meeting, convention tourism can be another possibility in this region. Like convention tourism, Bandipur has big potential for adventures  like paragliding and rock climbing.

Bandipur changes its face from a famous trading hub to a ghost town and again to a favorite tourist destination.  An amalgam of culture and nature,   fresh and healthy environment, scenic grandeur and vibrant culture, Bandipur does worth 1-2 day stay of both domestic and international travelers.