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| Machhapuchhare (6993 m) |
We
were worn out after the continuous seven hours walk. First, an easy trail from
Ghandruk to Komrong, and then sharp downhill to Komrong Khola and again three
hours steady uphill can give anyone the first frustration of the trail,
especially for the beginners. It was already dark when we had reached
Chhomrong. Our physical strength could not afford any more excitement and 'search
operation' for lodges to select from meant additional torture. And since it was
a pick tourist season, getting a room for non-foreign-tourists like us in the Annapurna
Base Camp (ABC) route is a herculean task. The advance hotel booking at
Chhomrong was a great respite.
Our
next morning's wake up was welcomed by magnificent Himalayan view. Annapurna
South, Himchuli and Machapuchhare rose up in all boldness as free standing
mountains. At an elevation of 2170 m,
Chhomrong is not only the last permanent village in route to ABC, it also promises
to provide good view of Himalayas. It offers the best view than any other camps
till Machapuchhare Base Camp (MBC). We learnt the whole week was cloudy
with regular downpour and Himalayan view was not possible. But that morning, we
enjoyed a superb view in all directions under radiant skies. The sight of the
ice-covered western face of Annapurna South was particularly impressive. Feeling
blessed, we took it as our good luck sign.
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| A deep narrow valley on the way to MBC |
Next day, we set off around 7.30 am first to steeply descend
around 500 m to climb out almost the height of 2360 m to Sinuwa. Sinuwa offers
more lodges and accommodation facility than any other following camps
afterwards. Interestingly, this place is the last place that offered meat item
on our menu. Even signboards are kept on entry points requesting the trekkers
not to carry any meat items – chicken, pork, beef and buff. Ancient belief is,
the Himalayas are the abodes of god and goddess. That is the reason why
Himalayan region are regarded as the holiest and sacred place for both the
believers of Hinduism and Buddhism. And any disrespect and mistreatment to the
Himalayas results in personal accident and natural calamities.
The trail becomes comparatively easier up to the next camp,
Bamboo (2335 m). And, it was up and down all day till Doban. We found ourselves
just 430 m higher than Sinuwa after walking 4 hours. We opted for couple of
cups of tea. The pattern for food and drink was similar but slightly more
expensive. Most of the trek guides
suggested us to call it a day at Dovan. However, it was just 3 in the afternoon.
After long double mindedness, we decided to walk further more to Himalaya (2900
m) for our good night's sleep. We knew this decision was a bit suicidal.
Himalaya has just two lodges and the chance of getting a room there was very
faint. If not a room at Himalaya, we had to either return two hours down to
Dovan or climb two more hours to Deurali. We believed in the phrase 'no risk no
gain'. We had also made our mind to spend that night even in the dining.
Surprisingly, we got a four bed room. Luck on our side.
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| Machhapurchhare Base Camp, 3700 m |
As we started our
journey the next morning, we were more excited. The reason for the excitement
was not just the refreshed morning start. Actually, we were getting closer and
closer to the Annapurna Base Camp. Now only two camp – Deurali and
Machhapuchhare Base were left. We continued walking in invigorating pace. After
mere one hour and thirty minute walk we reached Deurali. At an elevation of
3100 m, Deurali is not very different from other clusters of lodges in the ABC
route. On our tea break, an Australian trekker shared her experience at ABC. She was very happy to be so close to Himalayas after the diversified Annapurna Round.
The vegetation and the topography slowly started changing from Deurali. After about 20
minute walk we entered a narrow valley like plain. It was surrounded by rocky
cliffs on its both sides. We continued our walk by the bank of the Modi. The
forest of tall trees changed into bushes and vegetation of Alpine
characteristics. There, yes there, we had the first close view of majestic
Himalayas. It's always a stirring experience to reach the edge of the forest
and suddenly have a sweeping panorama open up before one's eyes. Annapurna III,
Gandharba Sikha (Peak) and Gangapurna lined up in a row. And Machhapurchhare
was also smiling standing at the end of the line. By now we had reached
Machhapurchare Base (3700 m). After spending an hour for daal bhat break there, we headed further to the long awaited ABC. The
distance between MBC and ABC is mere one hour and thirty minute walk. Trekkers
want to cross the distance as quick as possible. However, their cameras
hesitate to. This is the most panoramic section in the whole trail. This is the
reason why most trekkers expense twice the time to cross the section.
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| Baraha Sikhar, 7647 m |
With four
lodges, one recently built, ABC is a cup like place surrounded by majestic snowcapped
Himalayas in all directions. Himchuli, Annapurna South, Baraha Sikha, Annapurna
I, Tent Peak, Gangapurna, Annapurna III, Gandharba Sikha, Machhapurchare and
other sizable mountains complete a circle. We were surrounded by entirely
different world, the world of Himalayas. Annapurna I (8091 m) is the highest
amongst these mountains. It is the first eight thousander summitted in Nepal.
This is where many of the world’s best climbers have made names for themselves,
have summited, have died.
Once a room was
confirmed, we walked up to the memorial that was put there in memory of
Russian climber Anatoli Boukreev who died in 1997. It has since been adopted
for other climbers such as Ian Clough of the UK who was killed on one of Chris
Bonnington’s expeditions in 1970. There is also a plaque for Inaka Ochoa of Spain who
remains at 7400m after his death in 2008; the silence and atmosphere were
enormously spiritual.
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| The Winner !!! |
Sunrise was breathtaking and nothing can describe the
atmosphere that everyone seemed to feel. Dozens of tourists had left MBC as
early as 4 am to have the sunrise view on Annapurnas. Most people didn’t speak,
those that did just whispered as they watched the changing light, colors and
sounds that made for a tingling experience that no camera or words can
describe. The view was electrifying. The
hide and seek between the cloud and the mountains was more interesting. Deep
glacier cut and the roaring sound of avalanche was another strange experience for us.
When I had seen the Annapurna range from Poonhill three years
back, I had promised myself to be on their lap one day. I had a dream
– to see them, to feel them and to breathe them. The Base Camp trek takes us
mostly through forest and up and down trail. It doesn't offer us more diversity
and colors as Annapurna circuit trek does. But being on ABC means you are right
beneath the Himalayas, you are on the lap of Himalayas which meant everything for me. Walking along the Himalayas is like meditation for me. I find better me every time I go on mountains. The two ten year old
girls descending from ABC have encouraged me to dream more and dream big. And hence, after
Annapurnas, my dream has shifted to Langtang and Ganesh ranges. Dream for
Himalayas continues…
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| Annapurna Base, 4130 m |
( The condensed version of this article was published on The Himalayan Times English Daily)
