A Walk to Remember ( Thankot - Chitlang - Daman on foot)

Walking with the China made music system @ Deurali

It just started with one medium sized malpuwa. Then came chana fried, aaluko Jhol tarkari, and boiled eggs. Some of us went for second set, followed by third. Soon we were all laughing – at what; I am not allowed to tell you everything. It was all men’s talk. We were at Godam Chowk, a small village near Thankot, for our breakfast. This was our point of start (POS) of three day- two night journey to Daman via Chitlang on foot. 

Ganesh and Langtang Range 

We needed a break away from the daily grind. Looking for an alternative, many places popped up on our mind. Sunil, a research associate at the Kathmandu University came up with the ‘Chitlang’ idea. He had been there few months before with his students. Suresh, a lecturer and a RJ at Hits F.M, Umesh  on his leave from his bideshi jagir, Prithvi, owner of a travel agency, Naresh, an aspiring chartered accountant and I  gave a big YES to Sunil. And it was a new place for all five of us. A team was set and the date was fixed.

Hiking was not new for us. Neither the forest was. However, as we started climbing up the hill leaving Godam, we were more euphoric.  Traversing through full-of-spring-forest was different experience. Everything was green. Some flowers (can’t name them) made the setting more beautiful. In addition, the six pairs of legs were accompanied by a china made music system. Six walking enthusiasts, lush green forest and a music system, what a combination!  Suresh had collected songs of all types. The range went from classic Nepali films to modern day English hit numbers. Thanks to Hits FM for maintaining such an extensive music library.  Naresh, on the other hand, had good collection of unplugged covers songs. It was nothing but six pair of legs navigating the forest trail with some good music in the background.

A distant view of Chitlang Village

We walked continuously for about two hours. As we reached Deurali, we were welcomed by a captivating view of the mid Himalayas – Ganesh , Langtang, and Gauri Shankar. It is a magic about Nepal. Wherever you go, after gaining some heights, you see the tallest northern solid snow walls.

 Deurali borders between Kathmandu and Makawanpur. ‘Deurali’- a Nepali word means a plain land at the hill-top. This also meant we had finished the uphill climb. The motorable road from Godam to Deurali is very bumpy. But a black topped road at Deurali surprised us. Sunil, the second timer to this place smiled and said, “This must be the shortest black topped road in the world”. We all laughed.

 In a local eatery, the khaja menu was no different. Chana ko tarkari, cheura, aalu and chiya. Instead, Naresh opted for a mug of chyang. This was a smart thinking. He must have thought “I am the youngest of all and I am safe.” A brief rest and the lunch re-energized us. And we continued downhill walk.

National flower at its best

            At a time when we found a fully bloomed rhododendron, we struggled hard to pluck it off. First, Umesh climbed the tree, couldn’t reach the flower. Then I took a running jump. Result, few scratch on my body and face but no flower. Tired, we tried a simple technique; a long stick.  And it worked. Spending about 20 minutes for the flower explained how ravenous we were for the national flower. Rhododendrons were expected on our trail before but either they were already withered or just buds. Some of them were smashed by the hikers too.  Beauty by the side ways is everyone’s target.

It was around 2 in the afternoon when we reached Chitlang. Nestled between hills, this Newari village was the main route to Kathmandu before the first motorable road, Tribhuwan Highway was completed in 1956 linking up the Indian southern border with Kathmandu. According to inscription dating back to Lichavi era, Chitlang was established by King Amshubarma. He had allocated the land for shepherds. Interestingly, the village has been able to give us an ancient feel even today. In the entire village, only the VDC building is cemented. Few houses are rich in wooden crafts as are the houses in Patan and Bhaktapur. Dhungedhra (water spout), chaityas, ponds and the built of the houses give us an impression that Chitlang is a part inside the Kathmandu Valley. The wide stretched vegetable farm makes it livelier. Chitlang also shares fame with Tistung and Palung for the production of green vegetable. Some dilapidated houses indicate the trend of permanent migration of local people to Kathmandu and Hetauda.

Indrasarobar

Purna Man dai had had lunch ready for us.  It was very obvious the lunch and the dinner were served with local kukhurako bhale. Also, a kg of trout fish for the drink refreshment. We spent the whole evening at the Taalu Danda, a plateau like place with an amazing landscape view. 

The next day, Prithvi and Sunil decided to return to Kathmandu. A money making man, Prithvi was clever enough not to lose his clients for another day. This is the difference between working for a boss and being a boss. But we felt sorry for Sunil because he was compelled to return just to save his university leave for a friend’s wedding the next month. Bidding farewell to them, we started our second day’s walk up to Daman.

An hour walk took us to Indrasarobar, a beautiful lake. Famously known as Kulekhani, this lake is an artificial lake built as Khulekhani Hydro backup reservoir. According to a local, an entire VDC was displaced to create the lake. He also shared it would take another one hour to reach the Kulekhani Dam. I calculated the length of the lake; the head is one hour away from its tail. 

Boating Thrill at Indrasarobar. 

The adult sun’s reflection was shimmering on the water surface. In the distance, the pine trees and hills were smiling looking at their mirror image. Beautiful day, beautiful lake and who would miss the boating thrill? Though an artificial lake, as you step on the boat, you feel everything natural. The water is tranquil, boating in a quiet, non- motorized canoe is a great experience. Boating in the lake was only different than in Fewa on the ground that no Machhapuchre  and Annapurnas were seen. Nor there was any temple in the middle of the lake. Otherwise, the tranquility and the fresh ambiance are similar.

After relaxed boating experience, we headed towards Daman. Right after half an hour uphill climb, we were received by a rhododendron forest, bloomed at its best. All four of us went wild. And we touched them, smelt them and tasted them. Personally, this was what I was craving for. We were in the midst of sea of the national flower. Anything national makes us proud. It was a proud moment for all of us.

Sunrise from Daman View Tower (2322 m)

While climbing up through a small Tamang village, a group of dogs started barking at us. Nothing’s new in it. But this made me realize the trial is less walked by outsiders. Dogs in the Annapurna region are friendlier and sometimes they follow the trekkers and they even lead the trekkers up to the next camp. Even the dogs in the regular trail and less visited trial are different in their behavior. Hopefully, those barking dogs in the village will make the trekkers their habit soon.

At 3 in the afternoon, we reached Daman. Situated at an elevation of 2322m, Daman is one of the major touristic stopovers. However, to our astonishment, Daman turned out to be very small– very few hotels, handful of houses and lesser movement of people. I had expected it to be something half the size of Nagarkot at the least. Nonetheless, the sunrise and sunset, and the view of Himalayan landscape were the hallmark of the place.

The facility of a binocular at the Daman view tower was another special attraction. For a mountain enthusiast like me, the close view of the Himalayas was worth an achievement. I could identify Manaslu from its eastern face. The distinct shape of Baraha Sikha helped me know the right one as Annapurna South and left as Annapurna I. I had another opportunity to feel Langtang Lirung and Gaurishankar through my eyes.  They were majestic, as always.  

On the third day, as we board a reserved jeep back to Kathmandu, all fellow passengers– a Norwegian lady (she wanted to be called as Astha), her talkative guide, Maya didi, four American young lads, and an old aged Italian, had something to learn from. Astha shared experience from her first visit to Nepal. Maya didi became emotional while sharing her story. The Italian never said no wherever he was offered something to eat. The young Americans were very suspicious in everything since they were two day old in Nepal. Most interesting was the driver dai who trusted the Norwegian lady who had lost her money. Even the driver did all the expenses for her in credit.

(Left) Sunil, Umesh, Naresh, Prithvi, Mahesh and Suresh

As we were nearing to Balkhu, Naresh shared his new awareness, “ I learnt to learn from travelers, a traveler without observation is a bird without wings. This walk is a walk to remember.”