Most Hair-Raising Trekking Passes in Nepal

Joe Bindloss

When people talk about trekking in Nepal, there's one question on everyone's lips. How high did you go? That's more than just bravado – with Nepal's tortuous topography, altitude is something you have to think about every day. Trails in Nepal climb higher than the summits of the tallest mountains in Europe, and conquering the high passes of the Himalaya is a badge of honour for any hiker worth their hiking boots.

Part of the glory of trekking in the Himalaya is how high you can go – because of the latitude, the snowline starts higher than the summits of many mountains further away from the Equator. However, this is not an environment to be taken lightly, as the events in Annapurna National Park on 12 October 2014 tragically demonstrated. Dozens of trekkers perished after blizzards struck the upper stages of the Annapurna circuit in Nepal's worst ever trekking disaster. On any trek, it is essential to make sure you are properly equipped for the conditions, that you tell people where you are going and when you will be back, and that you monitor the weather and seek shelter promptly if conditions deteriorate.

So, what is it like to cross a Himalayan pass? Well, put ideas of knife-edge ridges out of your mind. Most passes in the Himalaya involve a slow, sustained ascent on one side, and a slow, sustained descent on the other. The climb will test your lungs and muscles to breaking point; the descent will do the same to your knees. False ridges abound, so you'll think you've reached the top, only to have your hopes dashed as another soaring ridge looms ahead. But you can't miss the actual passes – just look for the strings of fluttering prayer flags, left by generations of past trekkers and their Sherpa guides.

Prayer flags at the Thorung La. Image by Simon Desmarais / CC BY-SA 2.0.

Those who successfully conquer the high passes of the Himalaya can join the exclusive club of high-altitude trekkers, and participate in the conversations that buzz around the bars of Thamel in Kathmandu. How did you feel at the top? Did you get any symptoms of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)? Did you take Diamox? More valuably, you'll gain the satisfaction of pitting yourself against a mighty natural obstacle and overcoming all the physical and psychological hurdles put in your way. For that reason if no other, the high passes of Nepal deserve a special place in the trekking hall of fame.

Nepal's most dramatic passes

For locals, crossing the passes – or la – that link the valleys of the high Himalaya is a daily necessity, particularly in Solukhumbu, where human habitation extends all the way to the Khumbu icefall on the flanks of Mount Everest. The meltwater streams that drain from the world's highest mountains have carved a tortured landscape of interlinked valleys that zigzag south towards the Terai plains like fossilised lightning. To get from Valley A to Valley B, the only option – short of walking downhill for days to reach the nearest river confluence – is to go over the top. If you feel like taking on the challenge, try our pick of the most testing passes in Nepal.

View towards Ama Dablam from the trail to Cho La. Image by Jochen Schlenker / Getty Images

1) The Cho La (5420m)

While legions of trekkers charge north from Dughla to Everest Base Camp, a smaller contingent of dedicated trekkers veers west towards Gokyo, crossing the mighty Cho La, squeezed between the snowcapped summits of Lobuche (6135m) and Cholatse (6443m). This dramatic side trek breaks down into a scramble over loose boulders before emerging at the perfect, unblemished glacier which caps the pass. Bring sunglasses, and a wide-angle lens for the magnificent views back down the valley towards the perfectly-framed peak of Ama Dablam (6856m).

Mountain lake framed by snow at Kongma La. Image by foto Voyager / Getty Images.

2) The Renjo La (5345m)

From the relative comfort of Gokyo, where you can fight off the cold with a hot flask of Nepali tea, the zigzag trail that climbs abruptly to the Renjo La from the western shore of the Dudh Pokhari inspires a curious sense of foreboding. But steel your nerves and you'll be rewarded with views of Everest that humble those from the crowded viewpoint at Kala Pattar on the Everest Base Camp trek. As preparation for the sheer descent to the Thame valley on the far side, focus your mind on the final gentle amble back to Namche Bazaar, and the ice-cold beer waiting for you at the world's highest Irish Pub.

3) The Kongma La (5535m)

Crossing the Kongma La, the highest of the Three Passes that link the high valleys of Solukhumbu, is not so much a trek as a precarious struggle for purchase on loose, skittering stones. But what views! As it climbs from the banks of the Imja Khola, the crudely marked trail offers views over a sawtooth ridge of ice-covered peaks, including two of the world's 8000-metre monsters, Lhotse (8516m) and Makalu (8481m). Pause for a moment of contemplation at the still and silent lakes just below the pass, then throw yourself into an almost vertical tumble over loose scree down to the Khumbu glacier.

4) Makalu Base Camp and the Sherpani Col (6145m)

The gruelling crossing from the Arun Valley to the Khumbu Valley will take you far from the maddening crowds. Only a handful of trekkers brave the trail from Makalu Base Camp to the Sherpani Col, perched at a head-spinning 6145m. The trek is just one leg of the epic 1700km Great Himalayan Trail, running the entire length of Nepal. This is not a trek for the faint-hearted – stages of the route involve technical climbing with ice axes and crampons, and hair-raising descents on fixed ropes – but few sights can match the crossing from Sherpani Col to West Col over virgin snowfields atop the Barun Glacier. 

Glacier camp between West Col and Sherpani Col. Image by Grant Dixon / Getty Images.

5) The Thorung La (5416m)

Nepal's most famous pass is crossed by hundreds of trekkers daily at the height of the season, but it was the scene of tragedy in October 2014 when blizzards hit the upper stages of the Annapurna Circuit trek, killing dozens of trekkers, porters and guides. Even in clear weather, the Thorung La is far from a soft option. The trail to the pass climbs almost 2000m from Manang, an ascent that must be staggered over three or more days to reduce the risk of AMS. The reward for all this effort is mesmerising views over the Great Barrier Ridge and the Annapurna range, with a prayer flag-draped chorten (Tibetan stupa) to pose in front of and a tiny teashop serving one of the most expensive, but welcome, cups of the tea in the Himalaya.

Staying safe at altitude

Altitude is not something to take lightly in the Himalaya. AMS is a risk on any trek above 2800m, and the chances of developing potentially life-threatening symptoms increase the faster you ascend. Always take the recommended acclimatisation days and follow the golden rules of high-altitude trekking – limit your rate of altitude gain to 300m per day, try to sleep at a lower altitude than the highest point you reach on any given day, and if you start to feel symptoms of AMS, descend immediately. The weather is also a critical factor; conditions can change suddenly and it's essential to seek shelter if the weather deteriorates. Sitting out heavy rain or snow in a teahouse is always a safer option than trying to push on to reach the next stop on your itinerary.

How low can you go?

There is no obligation to climb the highest passes. Some of the most rewarding treks in Nepal follow the winding valleys of the Middle Hills, passing through a fascinating tapestry of tribal communities. Even better, most 'cultural trekking' routes are well off the mainstream trekking circuit, so you'll see less Gore-Tex and apple pie but more of the real Nepal.

(Joe Bindloss is Lonely Planet's South Asia Destination Editor. You can follow him on Twitter @joe_planet.)

साइकलमा मुस्ताङ्ग (A Fun Bike Ride in Mustang)

बिहान आठ बजेको थियो, जोमसोम विमानस्थलमा ओर्लंदा। मौसम निकै घमाइलो। विमानस्थलको टुप्पीमा निलगिरि हिमाल। दक्षिण पश्चिम कुनामा धौरागिरि चुचुरो।

अस्ट्रेलियाबाट पहिलोपटक नेपाल आएका बेभेन क्याम्पलाई लिएर जोमसोम पुगेको थिएँ म। त्यहीँ अर्का अस्ट्रेलियन टोनी ओलेनेकीलाई भेटेर हामी मुस्ताङका सुख्खा भू–धरातलमा छ दिने साइक्लिङमा निस्कँदै थियौ। काठमाडौंबाट माउन्टेन बाइक जोमसोम ल्याइएको थियो।

पहिलो खण्ड जोमसोमबाट कागबेनीसम्म छोटो र सजिलो थियो। सडक सजिलो भए पनि मुक्तिनाथ जाने–आउने जीप र बसले उडाउने धुलो अनि १० बजेपछि चल्ने हावाले सास्ती दिन्थ्यो।
अन्नपूर्ण शृंखलाको विशाल पर्खालपछाडि पर्ने नांगा र उजाड चट्टानी पहाड एवं अनौठो भू–बनावट हेर्दै साइकल बेतोडले कुदायौं। ठाउँठाउँमा आराम गर्दै, पानी खाँदै, बेलाबेला, चार पांग्रेलाई बाटो छोड्दै तीन घन्टामा कागबेनी पुग्यौं।

छ वर्षअघि मुक्तिनाथ आउँदा कागबेनी नछिरी फर्कनुपर्दा निकै पछुतो लागेको थियो। यसपटक साइकलमै कागबेनीकै गल्ली गल्ली चहार्दै थिएँ। कागबेनी (२,८०० मिटर) पुरानो गाउँ। तिब्बतसँगको नुन व्यापारको प्रस्थान बिन्दु कागबेनी। यहाँबाट काली तरेर पश्चिम लागे पूर्वी डोल्पा पुगिन्छ। वारिबाटै उत्तरी बाटो समात्दा माथिल्लो मुस्ताङ।

साँघुरो गल्ली, प्राचीन माटाका घर, दरबारका अवशेष, चोक चोकमा बनाइएका छोर्तेन, गुम्बा र हिमाली रहनसहनले पर्यटकलाई लोभ्याउँछ। तेन्पे ग्यात्सेनले सन् १४२९ मा स्थापना गरेको तुपतेन सामफेल लिङ कागबेनीकै सबैभन्दा पुरानो गुम्बा।

दोस्रो दिन बिहानै हामी कागबेनीमाथिको पहाड चढ्दै मुक्तिनाथतिर लाग्यौं। उकालै उकालो। बाटो अप्ठ्यारो नभए पनि कठिन थियो। अघिल्लो दिनजस्तो मोटर र मोटरसाइकलको नाम निशाना थिएन। शान्त थियो। सकेको जति प्याडल चाल्दै, नसकेको उकालोमा साइकल ठेल्दै उचाइ लिदै थियौं। दुई घन्टा उकालो तय गरेपछि हामी एउटा पासमा पुग्यौं। पासको नाम थाहा नभए पनि जिपिएसले हामी झन्डै ३,५०० मिटरमा रहेको जानकारी दियो। चारैतर्फ सुख्खा पहाड र निलो आकाशमात्र थिए। त्यो उचाइमा पुगेपछि समथर बाटोमा साइकल चलाउन पनि उकालो उक्लिएजस्तै कठिन हुने रहेछ। उचाइसँगै हावामा अक्सिजनको मात्रा घट्दै थियो।

अलिकति उकालो चढ्दा त स्वास नै सकिएको जस्तो हुन्थ्यो। बेभेन भन्दै थिए, 'मैले अहिलेसम्म गरेको साइक्लिङमा यो गाह्रो हो।' हामी तीनमध्ये अनुभवी टोनी हामीलाई सिकाउँदै थिए, 'तिर्खा लाग्नुभन्दा अघि नै पानी खानु र भोक लाग्न नदिनु।' उनले हामीलाई बाटोमा पानी नपाउने र आफ्ना लागि कम्तीमा तीन लिटर पानी बोक्न भनेका थिए।

मुक्तिनाथ पुग्न तीन सय मिटर चढ्न बाँकी थियो। पारिपट्टि झारकोटको हरियालीले लोभ्याइरहेको थियो। साइकलको गति केही बढाएपछि अर्को प्राचीन गाउँ पुताक पुग्यौ। पुताक काट्नासाथ कुनै समयमा त्यस उपत्यकाकै राजधानी रहेको झोङ पुग्यौ। माथिल्लो मुस्ताङका राजा आमेपालका छोरा पोनद्रुङ थोग्यालले यस अग्लो स्थानमा किल्ला निर्माण गरेका रहेछन्। अहिले त्यसको भग्नावशेषमात्र देख्न सकिन्छ।
मुक्तिनाथ नजिकिदै थियो। झोङबाट थोरै उचाइ लिएपछि, ओलारो झर्दै एउटा झोलुंगे पुल तर्नेबित्तिकै मुक्तिनाथ आइपुग्छ। ग्ााउँ छिचोल्दै रानीपौवा पुगेपछि त्यस दिनको साइकल हँकाइलाई बिट मारियो।
बेभेनलाई लगातार टाउको दुखेको र हाइ अल्टिच्युट सिकनेसको औषधि खाँदा पनि आराम नभएपछि तेस्रो दिन उसलाई होटलमै छाडेर टोनी र म मुक्तिनाथ क्षेत्र घुम्न निस्कियौं।

होटल फर्कंदा बेभेनको स्वास्थमा सुधार नआएकाले टोनीकै सल्लाहमा उसलाई तल कागबेनी झारियो। हामी दुईचाहिँ चौंथो दिन पनि मुक्तिनाथमै बस्यौं।

बिहान सबेरै हामी लुप्रा पासतिर लाग्यौं। मुक्तिनाथ जाने जीप स्टपबाट दक्षिण पश्चिम सानो पैदल बाटो २० मिनेट डाउनहिल पछि लुप्रा पासको उकालो लागिन्छ। पास पुग्नेबित्तिकै त्यहाँको मनोरम दृश्यले मोहित बनाइहाल्छ। टुकुचे पिक आँखासामुन्ने नाच्न थाल्छ। मनोरम दृश्यमा रमाउँदा रमाउँदै त्यस सर्किटकै जोखिमपूर्ण यात्रा सुरु हुन्छ।

लुप्रा उपत्यका झर्ने पहाड निकै भिरालो र सानो टे्रल भएकाले साइकल लड्ने सम्भावना हुन्छ। डाउनहिल गर्दा अपनाउनुपर्ने सिप र कुशलताले भने यस्ता जोखिम कम गर्न सकिन्छ। डाउनहिल सकेर केही बेर खोला किनारमा चक्का घुमाएपछि लुप्रा गाउँ आइपुग्छ। स्वरूप र रहनसहनमा मुस्ताङी अरू गाउँजस्तै भए पनि लुप्रा यस क्षेत्रकै एकमात्र बोन बौद्ध धर्म अँगालेको गाउँ।
लुप्रा उपत्यकाको मुख्य झोलुंगे पुल पार गरेर उकालो लागेपछि एक्लेभट्टी झर्नुपर्ने हुन्छ। त्यहाँबाट खोला किनारैकिनार जोमसोम पुग्न सकिन्छ तर बेभेन कागबेनीमा हामीलाई कुरेर बसेकाले हामी त्यता लाग्यौं। साढे एक घन्टासम्म साइकल बोकेर ठाडो उकालो उक्लँदा एकपटक त मलाई साइकल नै फ्याँकेर जोमसोमतिर लागौं जस्तो भएको थियो।

यात्रा कहाँ सजिलो मात्र हुन्छ र! कागबेनी पुगेर स्याउको जुससँगै आरामपछि हामी तीनै जना जोमसोम लाग्यौं। त्यो दिनको लक्ष्य मार्फा।
स्याउको राजधानी भनेर चिनिने मार्फा थकाली गाउँ हो। सेतो रङ पोतिएका घर, दाउराले भरिएका छाना र एकछेउमा घाममा सुकाउन उनिएका स्याउका सुकुटी, स्याउ र तरकारी बगैंचा र हरियाली अन्यभन्दा उम्दा।
पाँचौं दिनको यात्रा लामो थियो। मार्फाबाट तातोपानी पुग्न हामीलाई ४० किलोमिटर गुड्नु थियो। उजाड माटो र बालुवाको पहाड र त्यसपछि बुट्यानी ढिस्को पहिल्याउँदै मार्फा पुग्दा हामी धुपीका वन छिरिसकेका थियौ। मार्फापछि टुकुचे, कोबाङ, कालोपानी, लेते, घाँसाको सुन्दरतालाई आत्मसात गर्दै, आँखाभरि टुकुचे निलगिरि, अन्नपूर्ण र धौरागिरिलाई कैद गर्दै कालीगण्डकी किनारैकिनार कच्ची मोटरबाटोमा पाँच दिनमा कमाएको आत्मविश्वाससँगै प्याडल चाल्दै बेलुकी चार बजे तातोपानी पुगियो। दिनभरको थकान तातोपानी कुण्डको डुबुल्कीसँगै हरायो।

छैटौं दिन दुई घन्टाको अन्तिम ल्यापपछि बेनी पुगेर जीपमाथि साइकल थन्क्याएर पोखरा फर्कियौं।
साइकलमा मुस्ताङका हिमाली भू–भाग चक्कर लगाउन सजिलो छैन। घाउचोटदेखि ज्यानै जान सक्ने जोखिम हुन्छ। कालोपानीमा फोटो खिच्न उत्ताउलो भएर पर्खाल चढ्दा ढुंगा खसेर दाहिने खुट्टामा लाग्यो। त्यसपछि बेनीसम्मको यात्रा घाइते खुट्टाले नै गर्नुपर्योप।
काठमाडौं फर्केपछि थाहा भयोे– गोलीगाँठामुनि लिगामेन्ट च्यातिएछ। डाक्टरले खुट्टा प्लास्टर गरिदिए। यात्रा सकिनै लाग्दा भएको चोटले दुःखी त बनायो नै तर घर फर्केको दिन मनाङ, मुस्ताङ र धौरागिरि क्षेत्रमा हिमपातले मानवीय क्षति गरेको खबर सुन्दा मन आत्तियो।
साहसिक क्रियाकलापमा जोखिम हुन्छ नै। जोखिम नै रोमान्चकतामा परिणत हुन्छ। अनि त्यही रोमान्चकता सम्झनलायक हुन्छ, जीवनभरका लागि।

(Published on the Nagarik National Daily, Nov, 8, 2014)

In the Lap of Annaurna

Published on The Himalayan Times National English Daily, Jan, 2014

For the Love of Books

Published on The Republica National English Daily, March 24, 2014 

A Walk to Remember ( Thankot - Chitlang - Daman on foot)

Walking with the China made music system @ Deurali

It just started with one medium sized malpuwa. Then came chana fried, aaluko Jhol tarkari, and boiled eggs. Some of us went for second set, followed by third. Soon we were all laughing – at what; I am not allowed to tell you everything. It was all men’s talk. We were at Godam Chowk, a small village near Thankot, for our breakfast. This was our point of start (POS) of three day- two night journey to Daman via Chitlang on foot. 

Ganesh and Langtang Range 

We needed a break away from the daily grind. Looking for an alternative, many places popped up on our mind. Sunil, a research associate at the Kathmandu University came up with the ‘Chitlang’ idea. He had been there few months before with his students. Suresh, a lecturer and a RJ at Hits F.M, Umesh  on his leave from his bideshi jagir, Prithvi, owner of a travel agency, Naresh, an aspiring chartered accountant and I  gave a big YES to Sunil. And it was a new place for all five of us. A team was set and the date was fixed.

Hiking was not new for us. Neither the forest was. However, as we started climbing up the hill leaving Godam, we were more euphoric.  Traversing through full-of-spring-forest was different experience. Everything was green. Some flowers (can’t name them) made the setting more beautiful. In addition, the six pairs of legs were accompanied by a china made music system. Six walking enthusiasts, lush green forest and a music system, what a combination!  Suresh had collected songs of all types. The range went from classic Nepali films to modern day English hit numbers. Thanks to Hits FM for maintaining such an extensive music library.  Naresh, on the other hand, had good collection of unplugged covers songs. It was nothing but six pair of legs navigating the forest trail with some good music in the background.

A distant view of Chitlang Village

We walked continuously for about two hours. As we reached Deurali, we were welcomed by a captivating view of the mid Himalayas – Ganesh , Langtang, and Gauri Shankar. It is a magic about Nepal. Wherever you go, after gaining some heights, you see the tallest northern solid snow walls.

 Deurali borders between Kathmandu and Makawanpur. ‘Deurali’- a Nepali word means a plain land at the hill-top. This also meant we had finished the uphill climb. The motorable road from Godam to Deurali is very bumpy. But a black topped road at Deurali surprised us. Sunil, the second timer to this place smiled and said, “This must be the shortest black topped road in the world”. We all laughed.

 In a local eatery, the khaja menu was no different. Chana ko tarkari, cheura, aalu and chiya. Instead, Naresh opted for a mug of chyang. This was a smart thinking. He must have thought “I am the youngest of all and I am safe.” A brief rest and the lunch re-energized us. And we continued downhill walk.

National flower at its best

            At a time when we found a fully bloomed rhododendron, we struggled hard to pluck it off. First, Umesh climbed the tree, couldn’t reach the flower. Then I took a running jump. Result, few scratch on my body and face but no flower. Tired, we tried a simple technique; a long stick.  And it worked. Spending about 20 minutes for the flower explained how ravenous we were for the national flower. Rhododendrons were expected on our trail before but either they were already withered or just buds. Some of them were smashed by the hikers too.  Beauty by the side ways is everyone’s target.

It was around 2 in the afternoon when we reached Chitlang. Nestled between hills, this Newari village was the main route to Kathmandu before the first motorable road, Tribhuwan Highway was completed in 1956 linking up the Indian southern border with Kathmandu. According to inscription dating back to Lichavi era, Chitlang was established by King Amshubarma. He had allocated the land for shepherds. Interestingly, the village has been able to give us an ancient feel even today. In the entire village, only the VDC building is cemented. Few houses are rich in wooden crafts as are the houses in Patan and Bhaktapur. Dhungedhra (water spout), chaityas, ponds and the built of the houses give us an impression that Chitlang is a part inside the Kathmandu Valley. The wide stretched vegetable farm makes it livelier. Chitlang also shares fame with Tistung and Palung for the production of green vegetable. Some dilapidated houses indicate the trend of permanent migration of local people to Kathmandu and Hetauda.

Indrasarobar

Purna Man dai had had lunch ready for us.  It was very obvious the lunch and the dinner were served with local kukhurako bhale. Also, a kg of trout fish for the drink refreshment. We spent the whole evening at the Taalu Danda, a plateau like place with an amazing landscape view. 

The next day, Prithvi and Sunil decided to return to Kathmandu. A money making man, Prithvi was clever enough not to lose his clients for another day. This is the difference between working for a boss and being a boss. But we felt sorry for Sunil because he was compelled to return just to save his university leave for a friend’s wedding the next month. Bidding farewell to them, we started our second day’s walk up to Daman.

An hour walk took us to Indrasarobar, a beautiful lake. Famously known as Kulekhani, this lake is an artificial lake built as Khulekhani Hydro backup reservoir. According to a local, an entire VDC was displaced to create the lake. He also shared it would take another one hour to reach the Kulekhani Dam. I calculated the length of the lake; the head is one hour away from its tail. 

Boating Thrill at Indrasarobar. 

The adult sun’s reflection was shimmering on the water surface. In the distance, the pine trees and hills were smiling looking at their mirror image. Beautiful day, beautiful lake and who would miss the boating thrill? Though an artificial lake, as you step on the boat, you feel everything natural. The water is tranquil, boating in a quiet, non- motorized canoe is a great experience. Boating in the lake was only different than in Fewa on the ground that no Machhapuchre  and Annapurnas were seen. Nor there was any temple in the middle of the lake. Otherwise, the tranquility and the fresh ambiance are similar.

After relaxed boating experience, we headed towards Daman. Right after half an hour uphill climb, we were received by a rhododendron forest, bloomed at its best. All four of us went wild. And we touched them, smelt them and tasted them. Personally, this was what I was craving for. We were in the midst of sea of the national flower. Anything national makes us proud. It was a proud moment for all of us.

Sunrise from Daman View Tower (2322 m)

While climbing up through a small Tamang village, a group of dogs started barking at us. Nothing’s new in it. But this made me realize the trial is less walked by outsiders. Dogs in the Annapurna region are friendlier and sometimes they follow the trekkers and they even lead the trekkers up to the next camp. Even the dogs in the regular trail and less visited trial are different in their behavior. Hopefully, those barking dogs in the village will make the trekkers their habit soon.

At 3 in the afternoon, we reached Daman. Situated at an elevation of 2322m, Daman is one of the major touristic stopovers. However, to our astonishment, Daman turned out to be very small– very few hotels, handful of houses and lesser movement of people. I had expected it to be something half the size of Nagarkot at the least. Nonetheless, the sunrise and sunset, and the view of Himalayan landscape were the hallmark of the place.

The facility of a binocular at the Daman view tower was another special attraction. For a mountain enthusiast like me, the close view of the Himalayas was worth an achievement. I could identify Manaslu from its eastern face. The distinct shape of Baraha Sikha helped me know the right one as Annapurna South and left as Annapurna I. I had another opportunity to feel Langtang Lirung and Gaurishankar through my eyes.  They were majestic, as always.  

On the third day, as we board a reserved jeep back to Kathmandu, all fellow passengers– a Norwegian lady (she wanted to be called as Astha), her talkative guide, Maya didi, four American young lads, and an old aged Italian, had something to learn from. Astha shared experience from her first visit to Nepal. Maya didi became emotional while sharing her story. The Italian never said no wherever he was offered something to eat. The young Americans were very suspicious in everything since they were two day old in Nepal. Most interesting was the driver dai who trusted the Norwegian lady who had lost her money. Even the driver did all the expenses for her in credit.

(Left) Sunil, Umesh, Naresh, Prithvi, Mahesh and Suresh

As we were nearing to Balkhu, Naresh shared his new awareness, “ I learnt to learn from travelers, a traveler without observation is a bird without wings. This walk is a walk to remember.”

Shared Silence

Gaurishankar Himal
Photo: Amrit Bhadgaonle  

You and I

As silent as the Mountains 
It’s a 'shared silence'
But it speaks 
..... Words ?? 
No thanks, 
please!

फरक बाटो दृश्य एक

फरक फरक होलान बाटोहरु 

Kanchanjangha 
Photo: Amrit Bhadgaonle

एउटा पहाड उक्लने 

दृश्य एकै त हो

टुप्पोबाट देखिने

Junko Tabei: To Boldly Go Where No Woman Has Gone Before

" I can't understand why men make all this fuss about Everest…It's only a mountain," Junko Tabei is believed to have said after climbing right to the top of the Mount Everest.

Junko Tabei

But there was some serious fuss to be made about Tabei's Everest ascent. Only 36 people had stood on Mount Everest's summit before Tabei: all of them men. On 16 May 19975, defying stereotypes and battling prejudices, Tabei created history by becoming the first woman to stand on the peak of the world's highest mountain.

Born on 23 May 1939 in a small town in North Japan, Tabei was one of seven children. A very frail child, she suffered from weak lungs and was never very athletic. In fact, often being teased for being too "sickly", Tabei shunned sports.

When she was 10 years old, Tabei tagged along with a teacher on a school climbing trip to Mount Asahi (6,233 feet/1900 m) and Mount Chausu (6,365 feeet/ 1940 m) in Nasu. This outing was to change Tabei's life forever– she fell in love with climbing. It was a non-competitive sporting pursuit that suited her temperament. She could climb at her own pace, reaching the top even if she was slow, could quit, turn around and return another day and the mountain peak would still be hers to claim.

Since, at that time, mountaineering was not considered to be an appropriate occupation for women in Japan, Tabei went on to graduate with a degree in English literature from the Showa Women's University. Tabei became very serious about mountain climbing soon after graduation and took it up professionally. At the age of 30, she formed the Ladies Climbing Club (LCC) of Japan in 1969.

Only 4 feet and 9 inches tall, the diminutive Tabei had soon scaled most of the Japanese peaks, including Mount Fuji, and was looking for bigger mountains to climb. On 19 May 1970 she, along with members of her club, scaled Annapurna III and now they set their sights on Mount Everest.

The club applied to the Nepalese government for a permit in 1971, but the climbing schedule was full for the next four years. This was when Japan's Nihon Television and the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper came to her rescue. 1975 was declared the International Women's  Year by the United Nations, and to mark the occasion, the two organizations decided to sponsor an all-women expedition to Mount Everest. Tabei was one of the fifteen women chosen from hundreds of candidates.

After an intense training period, Tabei left her two-and-half-year-old daughter at home and headed to Kathmandu with the rest of the team. Making good progress, the all-women expedition, along with their Sherpa guides were spending time getting acclimatized at 20,669 feet (6,300m) when they were hit by terrible avalanche on 4 May. All climbers, their tents, climbing equipment and the Sherpas were buried under a thick blanket of snow. The Sherpa guides did a remarkable job of rescuing everyone. Tabei was pulled out from under the snow by the legs by her Sherpa Ang Tshering, who later accompanied her to the summit.

Tabei was covered in welts and bruises and her legs and back hurt. However, despite this, after making sure that everyone was alive and alright, Tabei, as deputy expedition leader, decided to continue further up the icy slopes of Everest. From here on, the climb was a challenge for a battered Tabei. But determined to get to the very top, Tabei soldiered on, often crawling on her hands and knees.

Twelve days later, 35-year-old Tabei's perseverance was justly rewarded, when she became the first woman to successfully summit Mount Everest. Had she and her team been delayed by the avalanche the record could easily have slipped through Tabei's fingers. For, just 11 days later, 37-year-old Phantog, a Tibetan member of the Second Chinese team to ascend Mount Everest, became the second woman to summit the mountain.

Tabei with another Everest legend, Reinhold Messner during 60th anniversary of the first successful ascent of Everest in Kathmandu, 2013

Fighting for the social equality of women in Japan, Tabei is believed to have said that climbing Everest was easier than overcoming discrimination in Japan. At that time, women were discouraged from indulging in non-family related pursuits. However, since Tabei's remarkable achievement, there have been several Japanese women climbers who have gone on to scale Everest, among other mountains. The list included Tamae Watanabe, who holds the record for being the oldest woman to have climbed Everest, not once but twice.

After conquering Everest, Tabei went on to become the first woman to complete  the Seven Summits when she scaled the 16,023 foot-high (4883 m) Carstensz Pyramid in 1992.

Tabei returns to the mountains time and again, because they teach her " a lot of things", making her realize, "how trival my personal problems are". Tabei likes to describe herself as "a free spirit of the mountains".

Now over 70, Tabei shows no signs of slowing down. Her dream is to climb the highest mountain in every country. With over 60 of them already scaled, she has just over two-thirds of the way still to go. And when she is not climbing mountains, Tabei spends time as the director of the Himalayan Adventure Trust of Japan, an organization dedicated to preserving mountain environments.

This story is included in Incredible Ascents To Everest published by Roli Books