Ghorepani-Ghandruk Call

Beautiful Sunrise View from Poonhill

For me, one vacation a year is must. And, when we talk about vacation what could be better than walking to the remote places? There's something that keeps calling me back to pristine country side.  After Basantapur-Taplejung trekking last year, I was planning to trek to Upper Mustang. Given the long and expansive route and unavailability of friends ( Dashain time), I ended up going to Gorepani-Ghandruk round which is the best option for trekkers like me who want to see more in Nepal but do not have more time with.

Ram, a good friend from Pokhara has similar nomad heart. He readily agreed with my trekking proposal. He came to receive me in Pokhara and that evening we enjoyed majestic sun set above the hills of Fewa Lake.  After a good night's rest, we did simple shopping –chocolates, cigarette and some toiletries and started our journey. To proceed from Pokhara, we had two options: taxi to Nayapul or local bus in route to Baglung. We opted for the latter after all Rs 85 per passenger in the local bus is much cheaper than Rs. 400. in taxi.   We climbed up onto the roof–the only spot available. It was a bit risky but the view you get to see from the roof deserves the risk.

Chautari View

Our trekking started from Nayapul. After walking about half an hour, we reached Birethati. Actually, at first, we were not planning to go to Gorepani/Poonhill  but as we learned that Ghandruk is hardly 6 hours walk from Birethati, we decided to go other way round–Ghorepani to Ghandruk.  Ram had gone to Ghandruk once when he was in his school. But, to Gorepani, everything was new for us. We didn't know if we could reach Ghorepani the same day. Going to new places without knowing the route or without any guiding maps is always a challenge. We accepted the challenge and set ourselves to explore the unexplored (at least for two of us).

It takes about 3 hours to reach Tikhedhunga from Birethati and the trail is comparatively easier. Tikhedhunga onwards starts the strenuous walk. 5 hour long steady climb which is known as Ulleri ko Ukalo is the most notorious of all in whole round. To make the matter worse, pouring started as we were about to finish the climbing. Then only we realized how we had underestimated by cutting necessities down. No raincoat, wet shoes and freezing hands.  As we stopped for lunch at Ulleri, the pouring stopped. We were richly compensated for our sorry condition by the unexpected semi circle beautiful rainbow. It was for the first time, we had seen rainbow that close.

Annapurna South as seen from Poonhill.

After hard climb to Ulleri, it was time to get deep into the forest from Banthati.  It's about 4-5 hours rhododendron forest walk. We imagined how the forest would look like blooming at the fullest.  Langurs were the only animal species we saw in the forest. However, the chirping of birds entertained us throughout the walk.  It was already dark when we reached a small village of Birethati (2874m). As we stopped to take some snaps posing in front of a sign post with "Welcome to Birethati", then only we realized we were in Myagdi never knowing when we left Kaski behind.  Locals told us we had walked the distance which people normally walk in two days. At Birethati, every houses with blue tinned roof was wonder for us. I have heard Khumbu valley has green roofed houses. Since our legs were hurting deadly, without much ado, we decided to find a hotel room and throw ourselves into the warm bed.  The night temperature was below 5 degree and we were literally quivering. Thanks to sauni didi who served us jhaneko rakshi  that helped keep our body warm to some extent.

The next morning, at 5:30, although reluctant to leave warm bed, we started to climb the famous Poonhill. We saw couple of tourists along the way. But after 45 minutes of steep climb, we reached the top of Poonhill  (3210 m). It was already crowded. Most of the tourists were setting their cameras to capture the sun rise. As the sun rose, the atmosphere was electrifying. Words are not sufficient to describe the beauty of sunrise. The clouds turned into golden, the Himalayas changed their colour and turned into golden too. More  the sun gained height, more beautiful was  the panorama. I understood why Machhapuchre Himal is named as 'Machhapuchre'. The fish tail peak was seen clearly. In addition, the view of Himchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna, Tukuche, Nilgiri, Daulagiri is so captivating that visitors cannot help but reminisce. The Himalaya range seen from Poonhill extends to more than 180 degree.  It was a dream comes true which is why we were the last to descent from Poonhill.

From Ghorepani, the northern downhill leads to Tatopani, Maygdi and then to Mustang. But, our next destination was Ghandruk. After breakfast, we targeted Ghandruk the same day. Otherwise, the trekkers (mostly foreigners) opt to stay a night at Tadapani.  We had hardly seen tourists on the way to Ghorepani the previous day. In contrast, as we headed to Ghandruk, we were surprised to see hundreds of tourists.  There was a long queue which reminds me of Salt Caravan. But this was mere a caravan of enthusiast tourists, mostly Asian visitors. After gaining some heights equal to height of Poonhill, we reached Deurali. The clouds completely enveloped us. The sweating trekkers were busy putting jackets and gloves on. To keep ourselves warm and also to invigorate us, we drank rakshi wherever available.

From Deurali, 2 hour descent takes to another tiring step hill climb just before Tadapani. As we were approaching Tadapani, one tourist asked me how long was the climbing. I answered her  just about 1 hour.  She shared with joy, "I will roll down when I meet downhill climb".  A small stopover with nearly two dozen lodges, Tadapani  is the  point just before Ghandruk.  After taking our lunch, we set ourselves for the descent of four hours. Though the trail runs across the middle of jungle, it is well maintained. The bridge is built over the springs and sign posts are built for guidance–thanks to National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC). 

At Ghandruk

 After meticulous forest downhill for four hour, we reached Ghandruk. I was in school I had heard about Ghandruk. The word 'trekking' and Ghandruk used  to come to my mind simultaneously.  It was another dream came true. Finally, I was in legendry village of Gurungs. Stone roofed houses, clean  stone paved trail, welcoming host and ever smiling and frank people are something to relish in Ghandruk. To our surprise, at night, the locals organized a singing and dancing programme. Half intoxicated by local wine, we danced till last music piece from Panchaya Baja.  Next morning, after a brief village tour, we bid farewell to lovely sunny Ghandruk. Next, we  headed to Syaulibazaar and then to Nayapul from where we took bus to Pokhara.

During our four day trek, we experienced wonders after wonders. Green forests, recurring streams, majestic Himalayas, rainbow, country lives and hospitality are the hallmark of "Naturally Nepal". Moreover, we met many helping hands throughout the journey. Laure dai didn't allow us to pay for our lunch at Ulleri, Michael bhai arranged our hotel stay in Ghorepani, Chaudhary dai for sharing his experience  in trekking field, Gurung Aama helped my message conveyed to a girl with whom I was in love at first sight in Ghandruk and police Inspector dai in Damauli for his kind help–these people made our journey more memorable. Once I was told, give mundane a little twist, set yourself to  travel and the whole world opens up for you. At least, it is true when you travel to places like Ghandruk and Ghorepani.