The Annapurna Base Camp: Promise made and fulfilled

Machhapuchhare (6993 m)

We were worn out after the continuous seven hours walk. First, an easy trail from Ghandruk to Komrong, and then sharp downhill to Komrong Khola and again three hours steady uphill can give anyone the first frustration of the trail, especially for the beginners. It was already dark when we had reached Chhomrong. Our physical strength could not afford any more excitement and 'search operation' for lodges to select from meant additional torture. And since it was a pick tourist season, getting a room for non-foreign-tourists like us in the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) route is a herculean task. The advance hotel booking at Chhomrong was a great respite.

Our next morning's wake up was welcomed by magnificent Himalayan view. Annapurna South, Himchuli and Machapuchhare rose up in all boldness as free standing mountains.  At an elevation of 2170 m, Chhomrong is not only the last permanent village in route to ABC, it also promises to provide good view of Himalayas. It offers the best view than any other camps till Machapuchhare Base Camp (MBC). We learnt  the whole week was cloudy with regular downpour and Himalayan view was not possible. But that morning, we enjoyed a superb view in all directions under radiant skies. The sight of the ice-covered western face of Annapurna South was particularly impressive. Feeling blessed, we took it as our good luck sign.

A deep narrow valley on the way to MBC

Next day, we set off around 7.30 am first to steeply descend around 500 m to climb out almost the height of 2360 m to Sinuwa. Sinuwa offers more lodges and accommodation facility than any other following camps afterwards. Interestingly, this place is the last place that offered meat item on our menu. Even signboards are kept on entry points requesting the trekkers not to carry any meat items – chicken, pork, beef and buff. Ancient belief is, the Himalayas are the abodes of god and goddess. That is the reason why Himalayan region are regarded as the holiest and sacred place for both the believers of Hinduism and Buddhism. And any disrespect and mistreatment to the Himalayas results in personal accident and natural calamities.

The trail becomes comparatively easier up to the next camp, Bamboo (2335 m). And, it was up and down all day till Doban. We found ourselves just 430 m higher than Sinuwa after walking 4 hours. We opted for couple of cups of tea. The pattern for food and drink was similar but slightly more expensive.  Most of the trek guides suggested us to call it a day at Dovan. However, it was just 3 in the afternoon. After long double mindedness, we decided to walk further more to Himalaya (2900 m) for our good night's sleep. We knew this decision was a bit suicidal. Himalaya has just two lodges and the chance of getting a room there was very faint. If not a room at Himalaya, we had to either return two hours down to Dovan or climb two more hours to Deurali. We believed in the phrase 'no risk no gain'. We had also made our mind to spend that night even in the dining. Surprisingly, we got a four bed room. Luck on our side.

Machhapurchhare Base Camp, 3700 m

As we started our journey the next morning, we were more excited. The reason for the excitement was not just the refreshed morning start. Actually, we were getting closer and closer to the Annapurna Base Camp. Now only two camp – Deurali and Machhapuchhare Base were left. We continued walking  in invigorating pace. After mere one hour and thirty minute walk we reached Deurali. At an elevation of 3100 m, Deurali is not very different from other clusters of lodges in the ABC route. On our tea break, an Australian trekker shared her experience at ABC. She was very happy to be so close to Himalayas after the diversified Annapurna Round. 

The vegetation and the topography slowly started changing from Deurali.  After about 20 minute walk we entered a narrow valley like plain. It was surrounded by rocky cliffs on its both sides. We continued our walk by the bank of the Modi. The forest of tall trees changed into bushes and vegetation of Alpine characteristics. There, yes there, we had the first close view of majestic Himalayas. It's always a stirring experience to reach the edge of the forest and suddenly have a sweeping panorama open up before one's eyes. Annapurna III, Gandharba Sikha (Peak) and Gangapurna lined up in a row. And Machhapurchhare was also smiling standing at the end of the line. By now we had reached Machhapurchare Base (3700 m). After spending an hour for daal bhat break there, we headed further to the long awaited ABC. The distance between MBC and ABC is mere one hour and thirty minute walk. Trekkers want to cross the distance as quick as possible. However, their cameras hesitate to. This is the most panoramic section in the whole trail. This is the reason why most trekkers expense twice the time to cross the section.

Baraha Sikhar, 7647 m

With four lodges, one recently built, ABC is a cup like place surrounded by majestic snowcapped Himalayas in all directions. Himchuli, Annapurna South, Baraha Sikha, Annapurna I, Tent Peak, Gangapurna, Annapurna III, Gandharba Sikha, Machhapurchare and other sizable mountains complete a circle. We were surrounded by entirely different world, the world of Himalayas. Annapurna I (8091 m) is the highest amongst these mountains. It is the first eight thousander summitted in Nepal. This is where many of the world’s best climbers have made names for themselves, have summited, have died.

Once a room was confirmed, we walked up to the memorial that was put there in memory of Russian climber Anatoli Boukreev who died in 1997. It has since been adopted for other climbers such as Ian Clough of the UK who was killed on one of Chris Bonnington’s expeditions in 1970. There is also a plaque for Inaka Ochoa of Spain who remains at 7400m after his death in 2008; the silence and atmosphere were enormously spiritual. 

The Winner !!! 

Sunrise was breathtaking and nothing can describe the atmosphere that everyone seemed to feel. Dozens of tourists had left MBC as early as 4 am to have the sunrise view on Annapurnas. Most people didn’t speak, those that did just whispered as they watched the changing light, colors and sounds that made for a tingling experience that no camera or words can describe. The view was electrifying. The hide and seek between the cloud and the mountains was more interesting. Deep glacier cut and the roaring sound of avalanche was another strange experience for us.

When I had seen the Annapurna range from Poonhill three years back, I had promised myself  to be on their lap one day. I had a dream – to see them, to feel them and to breathe them. The Base Camp trek takes us mostly through forest and up and down trail. It doesn't offer us more diversity and colors as Annapurna circuit trek does. But being on ABC means you are right beneath the Himalayas, you are on the lap of Himalayas which meant everything for me. Walking along the Himalayas is like meditation for me. I find better me every time I go on mountains. The two ten year old girls descending from ABC have encouraged me to dream more and dream big. And hence, after Annapurnas, my dream has shifted to Langtang and Ganesh ranges. Dream for Himalayas continues…

Annapurna Base, 4130 m

( The condensed version of this article was published on The Himalayan Times English Daily)